A post or so ago it was all about satisfying my hunger for pizza, parmigiana, and proper bacon in my brief return to north Jersey, but that was only half the story. The latter half of our trip included yet more sampling of the local “cuisine.”
We headed south on the New Jersey Turnpike to visit with Tim’s family, which now includes my dear friend Karyn who is married to Tim’s cousin Danny. Karyn is in fact the person who unwittingly brought Tim and me together by asking me to help arrange a meet and greet with her then boyfriend Danny’s family when she came to visit me in London in 2008; the rest as they say is history!
For our South Jersey leg of the trip Tim was anticipating seeing his family, taking a trip to the Liberty Bell, having a taste of Philly known as the cheese steak, and continuing the tour of my former homes in The Garden State. Certainly the highlight was spending time with ”our” family—there was one point when we were sitting at the kitchen table in Karyn and Danny’s beautiful new home and we joked about how slightly odd it was that we were all now related, though Karyn’s brother J would have none of it! In fact J is the reason I know Karyn; years ago we all were on a trip together in Jamaica and had a wonderful time. Karyn and I stayed in touch and that has led to a wonderful friendship.
The double treat was having Aunt Ethnea and Uncle Pat—Danny’s parents, and Tim’s godmother—also staying with us. One night Uncle Pat made his famous chili—I say that because Tim still uses the same recipe he learned from Uncle Pat years ago. I must say we had a couple of lovely evenings together around the dining room table. Although Karyn and Danny had only moved a few days before, the house was in good order—I understand that Uncle Pat, having been in the US Navy and moved dozens of times, was a good part of the reason why! Poor Danny didn’t exactly know where everything was—he looked more bewildered than I did one morning as I was searching for the salt and pepper—though I suspect by now he’s opened all the cupboards and figured out where most things are.
Tim and I did take the time to go to Philadelphia so Tim could see one of the more well-known artefacts of American history. It was a lovely day, sunny and just a little cool, and there was no queue (or need for tickets) to walk through the Liberty Bell centre and take a tour of Independence Hall. I hadn’t been myself in years, and it was nice to see history from another person’s perspective—I’d not have noticed the coloured string around a bundle of legal papers in one of the rooms, but Tim picked it up instantly. To this day the barristers in England still tie case briefs in string, which I find at once quaint and slightly out of step with technology!
After our stroll through the area we headed uptown to Reading Terminal Market, with an eye toward having some lunch. We stopped by Carmen’s and watched the man behind the grill prepare a Philly cheese steak, and thought we could share one. Tim went to order while I found us a couple of stools around the square stall—the market is full of little places to buy local produce, meat, etc, and also a few places to grab a bite. Tim returned a bit overwhelmed—ordering brings so many choices (with onions, what kind of cheese, etc). The classic Philly cheese steak is made with whiz—Cheese Whiz, that bright yellow processed cheese in a jar—though Tim (wisely) opted for provolone. He also requested tomatoes, but when I wrinkled my nose at the thought of them on a cheese steak Tim asked the cook to remove them, and he did. I’m not a huge fan—it’s just one of those things you need to experience in Philadelphia “cuisine,” and it sufficed as a satisfying lunch.
We walked on en route to the Rodin Museum, one of my favourites in the area, only to find it was closed for renovation. No matter, the Philadelphia Museum of Art was just steps away and had a Van Gogh exhibit on, so it was a more than adequate second choice. Museums in the US often have a hefty entry fee—both the MoMa in NYC and the PMA asked $25—which when you’re used to simply walking in startles you (the Tates here in London by contrast are both entry-free), on top of an additional fee for special exhibits. We ponied up the cash and walked through the exhibit, which for the fee at least gave us free audio. I do enjoy Van Gogh’s work, and it was well worth the visit and the dollars.
There is one other local food favourite—the hoagie—that I’d forgotten when planning our Jersey adventure, and when J suggested a Carmen’s Deli lunch at his new home I was delighted—Carmen’s has always been the place to go for a great sandwich, and I hadn’t had one in years.
I must say, while the hoagie was fantastic, the treat of the day was seeing J’s beautiful home, which he designed, nestled in the woods of Mullica Hill not far from where I used to live. One of the more striking features is a stone fireplace that reaches all the way up the 24-foot high ceiling, and apparently well below into the basement. It is a gorgeous place, with lots of light and air and wood and modern appliances. I am thrilled for J that his dream house is no longer a dream, and am very impressed for his captivating, innovative design. My little twin home down the road pales in comparison, but I still took a swing by to show Tim!
Our last meal in our Jersey adventure was actually at the airport—memorable only for its price (you’re a captive audience and they know it), though the food was certainly good. While dining in the sports bar I got the chance to see a little of Jeremy Lin, all the rage in basketball at the moment owing to his Harvard pedigree and reasonably good play (apparently most people think brains and sports don’t mix), and I felt only slightly wistful at recalling my love of American sports. No matter, I’ve managed to learn enough about rugby to enjoy the game, and look forward to the remaining Six Nations matches to come!
No comments:
Post a Comment